Walkers Report #958 – No Satisfaction, Pilchard and the Belle Epoque!

Hares: No Satisfaction And Pilchard

Run report  958 a walker’s  view

the version with pictures is Here

‘Where do you go to my Lovelies?’ asks Peter Sarstedt.

Well it depends on your SatNav- mine took me round in a couple of circles before arriving  at the designated meeting point in Juan les Pins. Undoubtedly the what3words   realness.difficult.atoning was  the appropriate reference if you were trying to find a parking space.

Trying to find  a good  what3 words square is always interesting- would  overheating. sweat.conditioning  nearby  have been  off putting? Or silliness.descriptions.longish  been  accurate?

We set off down avenue Notre Dame, a road lined on both sides by huge old olive trees- was this once an olive orchard? But then  I couldn’t remember whether I had locked my car  so I set off back to check. Of course it was locked;  so now I had to catch up, hoping that  it would be easy to follow the trail and catch the group.

There is a public WC  at the edge of the Pinede, which is a useful thing to remember, so I took advantage of this and on coming out I met Fairy Plunger. He  was looking lost and had been late  for the start due to a drive up to Tourrettes sur Loup to search for his  phone which it turned out he  had dropped inside his vehicle. So we both had to look for the trail as by now the walkers group must be miles ahead. Arrows pointed down to the path along the sea edge. We went through a very nice  restaurant; I bet it was a bit too close to the water’s edge when the wind got up  at lunchtime.Then further along the path there were sun worshippers  getting  top-ups to their tanned bodies. Now it is questionable whether you should look towards  them- will they be the beautiful female bodies and the handsome Adonises? or will they be  tubs of lard lounging like overweight seals.  Best not to stare. Chalk marks and flour  were easy to follow until we got to  the boatyard where the trail could not be seen; but then we got back to the road and I noticed an arrow up the Chemin du Crouton.

Markings here were easy to follow. Although we were passing  many  expensive villas  there is little visible of what must be behind the walls. Only a villa called Mistinguett   had a very fancy gateway- no plaque on the road to say that Mistinguett lived here- she was apparently a famous music hall dancer known for her legs- she must have revealed a couple of inches above her ankles  and driven men mad. One of the most famous villas on the Cap D’Antibes was the Villa America owned by Gerald and Sara Murphy in the Twenties but the villa itself was  rather unprepossessing- fame came from the parties and the guests who came.

‘To The Lighthouse’ is almost the motto of a hash set by No Satisfaction. Fairy Plunger didn’t think we were anywhere near the lighthouse, but there it was ahead of us. The way up  was to follow the Chemin du Calvaire , a rocky penitential path leading up to the chapel of the Garoupe. In July each year there is a procession  bearing a statue from the cathedral in the old town of Antibes to the chapel so the last bit up the hill must be difficult  as the path would not pass any health and safety regulations.. As Fairy Plunger and I got there, hoping for the beerstop, the walkers group was  preparing to leave as there had just  had a shopping break at all the stalls around the Chapel. No Satisfaction said that the beerstop was   just down the hill. So we continued down and soon we were at the main road  by the beach. The road is Boulevard du Bacon but I have no idea  whether the road is named after Francis Bacon, ( a 13th century philosopher and Franciscan friar), Roger Bacon ( a philosopher and adviser to Elizabth I and James I ) or Francis Bacon ( a recent painter known for  particularly tortuous portraits of popes). None of these I suspect.  There is a Restaurant de Bacon which you would hope  specialises in bacon sandwiches for all the walkers and joggers going round the Cap, but I don’t think you could get a BLT there. The recent trip advisor comments are not very favourable.

More to the point was the beer stop on the other side of the wall from the road. Farty Bum had not been warned to supply bacon flavoured crisps but the beer and crisps and chocolate! were most welcome. It was a delightful spot  with views to the old town of Antibes and the baie des Anges, with great views of a sailing regatta where the boats were heeling over beautifully in the offshore wind which had developed.

After the beerstop photos we started back. I thought I was following  the group but apparently not- I was the only walker to do the trail back which went through a path through the woods after a couple of tricky paths. No Satisfaction had devised a shortcut for the walkers group who were all back at the start by the time I got there.

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